Domaine de la Romanee-Conti 2009 : i giudizi di Robert Parker

Vi copio ed incollo i giudizi di Robert Parker su DRC 2009. Sempre se avete voglia di tradurre il fatto che per bere certe bottiglie occorre fare un mutuo!!!

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Duvault Blochet 90  

The Duvault-Blochet represents less that 5% of the crop in 2009. The paleness in colour belies what is a very fragrant, floral nose with scents of ripe strawberry, redcurrant and a touch of rose petal. It displays very fine delineation. There is a stemmy tincture that appears after leaving the wine for five minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant rounded entry. It does not possess great weight and it is light on its feet, and where it drifts a little in the middle, it returns with a subtle sensual, soft red cherry and strawberry finish. Very fine, very 2009. Tasted February 2012. Price: £650/case of six IB.

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Corton Grand Cru 92 

The debut vintage sourced from leased vineyard belonging to Domaine Prince Florent de Mérode, including 0.57 hectares of Clos du Roi, 1.2 hectares of Bressandes and 0.5 hectares from Renardes. Noticeably deeper in colour, the 2009 has a lifted, very seductive bouquet with intense aromas of wild strawberry and blueberry, polished with a patina of creamy new oak. It is very seductive, a bouquet that wants to make an impression. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, edgy tannins and a lovely citric edge that lends this freshness and vitality. With Aubert de Villaine’s touch, it is a less “chunky” Corton vis-a-vis other producers. There is fine weight and backbone towards the finish that demonstrates perfect dryness and reserve. This marks an excellent maiden Corton. Tasted February 2012. Price: £850/case of six IB.

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux Grand Cru 92 

The Echezeaux 2009 has a fragrant, tertiary bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and notes of freshly tilled earth. Fine definition although it is a little reticent at the moment, even compared to the Duvault-Blochet. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy cranberry and wild strawberry fruit, maintaining that earthy character with a “stemmy” note in the background. It is a harmonious Echezeaux but perhaps a little more masculine that I anticipated, suggesting that it my surprise by its longevity. It is very composed and gains a little weight with time in the glass. Tasted February 2012. Price: £1,150/case of six IB.

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru 95 

Quantities of the Grands Echezeaux are down due to the domaine’s selected replanting program and the decision to sell off the fruit from younger vines to negociants. It has a very perfumed, more feminine bouquet than the Echezeaux 2009, greater delicacy and delineation with subtle notes of crushed strawberry, raspberry and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with a very fine backbone and precision, a Grands Echezeaux with immense focus. The fruit profile is darker than the Echezeaux with more weight on the finish, offering subtle notes of strawberry, redcurrant and a touch of spice. The finish is crisp and dry, leaving the minerals to do the talking on the aftertaste. This is a superb wine that should flesh out nicely over the next decade. Tasted February 2012. Price: £1,780/case of six IB.

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg Grand Cru 94 

The Richebourg was the first to be harvested by the domaine on 13th September. I have been rather tepid about the performance of the Richebourg in recent vintage and it is unsurprising that it is now served before that Romanee St. Vivant. Here, it has a very reserved, stalky bouquet with notes of limestone and sea salt, underbrush and woodland aromas developing with aeration. The fruit certainly stays in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a lively entry, the fruit compensating for its bashfulness on the nose. It has good weight and is certainly more generous than the 2008, with dark cherry, cranberry and a hint of dried blood. It displays fine length and cohesion, finishing in typically introspective, broody style. Tasted February 2012. Price: £2,700/case of six IB.

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee St. Vivant Grand Cru 96+ 

Harvested after the Richebourg on the 15th and 16th September, the Romanee St Vivant has a quintessential, feminine, sensual bouquet of “restrained opulence”. Sweet ripe strawberry, maraschino and a hint of cassis marry beautifully and blossom from the glass. The palate is very harmonious with impressive weight that renders it more like a Richebourg in style. This has very fine backbone and real weight of fruit in the mouth, yet the finish has that irresistible fleshiness that leaves you totally smitten. There is even a cheeky saline tang lingering on the finish. Superb. Tasted February 2012. Price: £2,795/case of six IB.

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru 98
The La Tâche has a irrepressible bouquet that just soars from the glass. This is not one of those La Tâche wines that is deceptively taciturn, rather it immediately sets out to satisfy the olfactory senses with a heady perfume of incredibly well defined strawberry and redcurrant infused with crushed stone hints of smoke and autumnal woodland. The palate is medium-bodied with complete harmony and every flavour amazingly well defined, as if you could pick each one out, one by one. This is an irresistible La Tâche, a little fatter and more generous than previous vintages, with immense weight on the persistent finish that just seems to effortless glide to its conclusion. This is one of the finest La Tâche wines that I have encountered at this stage. Tasted February 2012. Price: £3,250/case of six IB.

2009 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 97+
Picked on 14th September, the 2009 Romanee-Conti has a very different aromatic profile to the La Tâche: much more broody and withdrawn with very precise brambly dark berry fruit, limestone, a touch of Lapsong Souchang. Leaving the wine in my glass for 5-7 minutes there is a touch of dried blood emerging and it some ways, it reminds me of the Grands Echezeaux. However, this is a bouquet lost in its own thoughts. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins that offer it a deceivingly rigid structure ensuring that it will age for 20-30 years at least. There is a tightly coiled ball of crisp wild strawberry, redcurrant and briary fruit that fans out beautifully towards the finish once it has had time to rest in the glass. The finish is long and glorious, yet effortlessly controlled and refined. Whilst less expressive than the La Tâche at this early juncture, it should age in its own solipsistic manner. This is a cerebral Romanee Conti. Tasted February 2012. Price: £5,250/case of six IB.


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